How to upgrade your engagement ring: tips from a jewellery designer

grey velvet Militza Ortiz jewellery box with platinum and diamond ring on linen

Celebrities have been upgrading their engagement rings for decades now.  According to Bride’s Magazine, Jackie Kennedy discreetly had her remodelled by Van Cleef and Arpel, Jennifer Lopez went from a pink diamond to a green one and Victoria Beckham now owns 15 engagement rings. Even Megan Markle had her engagement ring redesigned.

While we mere mortals are not like Victoria Beckham and will probably only ever own one engagement ring, we can upgrade or remodel it, if we so desire.

As a jewellery designer with over 20 years experience, I have seen it all. In my Wimbledon studio I have done everything from complete overhauls to small changes to engagement rings.

Before upgrading your engagement ring I highly recommend that you think it through, and these are few bits of advice I can offer you:

Before you start: A jeweller’s advice to upgrading your engagement ring

1.- Consider your lifestyle and your budget before you upgrade your engagement ring

An engagement ring is meant to be worn everyday, so if you love gardening, tennis, paddle or any other racket sport, or perhaps you like working with your hands as an artist then maybe a delicate claw setting is not for you. A bezel setting would suit your lifestyle as it is will hold your diamonds or gemstones more securely.

Your budget will play a major part in your new engagement ring. The more stones you add, the more gold, and the more intricate the project, the higher the cost. Depending on their reputation and years of experience, some jewellery designers may charge more than others.

Whatever your budget, please communicate it clearly to your jeweller so they can consider what can be done.

2.- Decide if you want a diamond upgrade or a completely new ring

Think hard about what you would like before approaching your partner and your jeweller.  A diamond upgrade sounds like something simply, you just swap the old diamond for a new one, right? Well, actually it is not that straight forward. The entire setting needs remaking and that is not as simple as it sounds.  Some times, making a whole new ring is required.

Discuss your vision with your jewellery designer!

3.-Break it gently to your partner

Everyone puts some thought into an engagement ring, regardless if they made a big statement like proposing on a big screen in front of thousands of people in a stadium, or just the two of you in front of the tv. Some may have spent hours designing it from scratch, other may have bought it in 10 minutes. Whichever the case, some thought was put into it.

Only you know your partner and how much though they put into that ring, but in any case, please be gentle with them.

Ideas on how to redesign your engagement ring

So now that you have decided what you would when upgrading your engagement ring and have discussed it with your partner, here are some of the many options you will have.

  • Swap Out the Central Stone for a Bigger One

One of the most popular ways to upgrade an engagement ring is by swapping out the central stone for a larger one. This can give your ring a more prominent and luxurious look. 

But please remember that a new setting will probably have to be made.

The big dilemma here is whether to trade in your current diamond or keep it. Trading in your diamond can help offset the cost of the upgrade, but keeping it allows you to preserve the sentimental value of your original stone. 

Selling a diamond is usually never a great idea, the value is usually between 20-60% of what you bought it for. Sadly, the mark up value will never be recovered.

So, consider what's more important to you: financial savings or sentimental attachment. 

If you decide to keep the smaller stone you can always have it set into a pendant or made into a second ring, or even a stud earring for a second piercing.

Related: Look at how we took a diamond from an engagement ring and set it into a pendant

Even though swapping out the diamond for a bigger is the most popular way to upgrade, it is not the only way. I personally love taking a slightly more creative route that allows you to end up with a new ring that reflects the journey you and your partner have been through.


Pear shaped aquamarine engagement ring set in platinum by Militza Ortiz

An aquamarine engagement ring

  • Swap Out the Central Stone for a Colored Stone

Who says your engagement ring has to feature a diamond? Swapping out the central stone for a coloured gemstone, such as a sapphire, aquamarine, or ruby, can add a unique and personal touch to your ring. I get really excited when clients ask me to do this because diamonds are not the only beautiful gemstone out there. The world of gemstones is big, bold, and bright!

Coloured gemstones can also reflect personal preferences, birthstones, or even significant events in your life, such as the birth of a child or a significant anniversary.

However, as a jeweller, I would personally avoid softer gemstones like emeralds, opals, or even tourmalines. Engagement rings get a lot of wear, we hardly ever take them off, making them unsuitable for soft gemstones that may scratch, chip, or break easily.

This option not only makes your engagement ring look radically different but also allows for a more customised and meaningful design.


  • Add Gemstones to Mark Milestones

Celebrate the significant moments in your relationship by adding gemstones to your engagement ring. Birthstones or diamonds that represent anniversaries and other milestones can be incorporated into the design. 

This creates an engagement ring that evolves with your relationship and tells a story through its unique elements.

You can add them next to your main stone or even inside the band for only you to see.


Halo engagement ring of London blue topaz on hand

A halo of London blue topaz around a central gemstone, ideal for an engagement ring upgrade.

  • Consider Adding a Halo to Your Existing Ring

A halo setting involves encircling the central stone with smaller diamonds or even coloured gemstones. This not only enhances the size and sparkle of the central stone but also gives the ring a more glamorous and sophisticated appearance. 

Adding a halo can make a substantial visual impact without the need for a complete redesign of your ring. 

It could be a separate halo that is a second ring or it can be surrounding your current one.


  • Change the Shape of Your Gemstone Completely

Changing the shape of your central gemstone can give your ring a whole new look. For example, if your ring currently features a round diamond, consider upgrading to a cushion cut or an oval cut. 

Each shape has its own unique characteristics and can drastically alter the ring's overall aesthetic. This is a great option if you want a noticeable change without altering the essence of your ring.

One thing I will say, as a jewellery designer/ maker, is that I do NOT recommend getting your own stone or diamond re-cut.  You will probably lose carats and not necessarily end up with your desired look. Unless your gemstones are chipped and can be saved please don’t try recutting them.


Before and after of engagement ring upgrade

Before and after of engagement ring upgrade using your ancestor's gemstones.

  • Add Gemstones to Honour Your Ancestors

Incorporating gemstones that you have inherited from your ancestors into your engagement ring is a lovely way to honour their memory. These stones can be added to the band or set alongside the central stone, creating a unique piece that carries sentimental value and family history. 

This upgrade not only enhances the ring's beauty but also infuses it with a deeper, more personal significance. 

Related: Look at one example of this here


Drawings of bezel settings for gemstones

Modern bezel settings for different shaped diamonds

Drawings of claw settings for gemstones

Classic claw settings for diamonds

  • Modernise the Setting

If your ring features a classic claw setting, consider upgrading to a modern bezel setting. A bezel setting encases the gemstone in a metal rim, providing a sleek and contemporary look while offering better protection for the stone. This change can modernise your ring’s appearance and make it more durable for everyday wear.

I love the sleekness of a bezel setting, you really can not beat it for a contemporary look.


  • Add Some Dazzle to the Band 

Enhance the sparkle of your engagement ring by adding small diamonds to the band. This technique involves setting tiny diamonds closely together along the band, creating a continuous shimmer. Pavé diamond settings can add elegance and brilliance to your ring without overwhelming the central stone, making this a subtle yet stunning upgrade.

Militza Ortiz jewellery box with diamond ring surrounded by yellow velvet ribbon

Does your your engagement ring have to stay the same forever?

Your engagement was a special time in your life that you will always hold dearly in your heart, but as life happens around us, couples evolve. And your ring can evolve with you and your partner. No two love stories are the same, yours needs to reflect yours and your partners own wants and needs.

By considering these options, you can transform your engagement ring into a piece that not only reflects your growth as a couple but also continues to hold deep personal meaning.

Upgrading your ring can be a wonderful way to celebrate your love story and create a timeless heirloom for the future.



Militza Ortiz

A Wimbledon, London based jewellery designer/maker with 20 years experience.  

I am passionate about envisioning and hand creating future heirlooms.

Militza Ortiz

Jewellery designer that tries her best with Squarespace

https://www.militzaortiz.com
Previous
Previous

Remodelling a pair of vintage Mugal Indian earrings

Next
Next

5 bespoke designer rings made by Militza Ortiz